1. The 2 digits tell me which stitch code is selected and the letter above them refers to which machine foot is recommended for that particular stitch.
2. Increases and decreases the stitch length
3. Increases and decreases the stitch width where relevant (zig zag, overlock, decorative etc)
4. Stitch selector buttons. Scroll up and down until the desired code is displayed.
5. 50 different built in stitches and their relevant codes. The only ones I've ever used are 01, 04, and 06. And for standard dressmaking they're really the only ones I'll ever need. The rest are just pleasant extras to explore when I get round to it!
2. Electronic needle up/down button. On most modern machines. Not neccessary (but a nice extra) as you can also do it manually by turning the handwheel towards you to raise or lower the needle into position.
3. Controls the speed of the sewing machine. This control is sometimes on the foot pedal instead.
1. Thread tension guide. First stop en route from the thread reel to the needle. Has a little spring in t to keep the thread in place during sewing.
2. This is a threading guide for the sewing function
3. This is a threading guide for the automatic bobbin winding function. (Alot of machines will have these little guides placed strategically around the machine. Sometimes they're just directional arrows, sometimes full on diagrams.
4. Thread tension dial. I don't tend to touch this that much as my machine has automatic tension, so adjusts itself. I guess this is there if you want to override that. But on a machine without auto tension this would be part of your "arsenal" in achieving perfect stitching.
5 & 6 are the next stops after the tension guide (see 1) when threading the machine for sewing
2. Spool Pin/Thread Spindle - holds the thread reel during sewing.
3&4 The spool and "buffer" for the bobbin winding mechanism.
5. Hole for adding an extra spool pin for twin needle stitching or (because the extra spool/spindle is larger) for larger cones/reels of thread.
2. Holds the needle in the needle clamp. Loosen this to realease the needle when changing. Tighten to secure new needle once in place.
3. Theres a little button here that releases the machine foot from the main part of shank. It may be a button or lever on other machines.
4. The machine/presser foot. Huge variety of these available. My personal favourite, seen here, is the overcast foot. Probably naughty but I use it for most things. Even when I'm not overcasting. I think maybe that's just one of those things that each sewer has a different preference for. This one just works for me.
5. The needle plate has a seam guide grid etched into it. When I first started sewing it didn't occur to me what this was for, I was so fixated with watching the needle I didn't even think to guide the edge of my fabric along these lines to keep my stitching line straight. Oooops!
6. This is where the bobbin is on my machine. On others the bobbin may be accessed from the front/may not have a see through cover.
7. Needle - nuff said! (Actually there'll probably be a seperate post on these.)
8. This and the lever to the left are part of the automatic threading function (found on most modern machines). I have never used this. I find it easy enough to thread the needle myself. Like mine, some machines have a white square that sits directly behind the needle, on the foot shank. This makes it easier to see what you're doing. If you struggle to see what you're doing, try holding a sheet of white paper behind the needle. You'll be suprised how much easier it makes it!
2. The bobbin in place. Important to use the correct bobbin for your machine. (note the directional arrows that tell you which way to insert the bobbin and thread)
3. This lever releases the bobbin cover. On my old machine the bobbin cover just slid on and off.
4. The bobbin cover. Handy it's see through because I can see at a glance if my bobbin thread is about to run out!
2. On/Off switch. (I'm terrible for leaving my machine on when threading or changing the needle etc. I'm a health and safety nightmare!)
3. Power input socket.
1. Feed dogs/teeth. These move the fabric along when in the raised position. When lowered it allows you to control the movement of the fabric yourself. Most commonly this would be in the case of freestyle embroidery or quilting. For normal sewing the feed dogs/teeth stay in the raised position.
2. Switches the feed dogs between postions.
3& 4. Shows the symbols used to indicate the position of the teeth
So here concludes today's tour! Some of the specifics will vary from machine to machine, but there are fundamentals that are common to every machine. So I hope this is of some use to someone.