Top Draftalong # 4 - Body Measurements Part 1

So. Here we are. Are you ready? Then we'll begin!! The very first thing that we ever did when I first started pattern drafting at college, was to pair up and take accurate body measurements of eachother. Unsuprisingly, that is because if we want accurate fit, we have to have accurate measurements.  Because we're drafting tops, we're concentrating on the torso and arms. These measurements are more than the standard bust, waist and hip measurements you'll see on pattern envelopes. Essentially you're creating a map of your body's curves at strategic points. Points that affect how a garment reacts to you wearing it and moving around. You may not use all of these measurements during the course of this Draftalong. Depends on the design of your final top/blouse. But good to have them all anyway, and I suspect we'll be suprised by how many of them we do use.


Points to remember/Before you measure:
Wear underwear or very thin, close fitting clothing.
Wear the same bra - Not for the whole duration of this Draft-along, silly! But everytime you do any fitting relating to your block/sloper, make sure you wear the same bra as you did when you took your measurements AND with the straps adjusted to the same length. Trust me!
Establish your natural waistline - Tie a length of elastic around your waist so it's snug and slightly stretched. Move around a bit. (Do the hokey Cokey or the Macarena. Whatever floats your boat!) The elastic will automatically settle at the narrowest part of your waist, thus establishing your "natural waistline". This is a pretty strategic and important measuring point, so leave the elastic in place.
Establish your neckline - Wear a short necklace or tie a piece of string in place of one. You're essentially marking where a collar would sit at the base of the neck. It should settle on or just above the collar bone as per the dotted line in the diagram
Measure Snugly - But be honest with yourself!! I found myself subconsciously sucking my tummy in when it came to having myself measured. WHAT was the point in that?!! I ask you! Unless otherwise stated, the tape measure should be snug around you but not tight enough to create any bulges., and you should be breathing normally!
Stand normally - On a level surface. Feet side by side, and arms relaxed by your sides I'd suggest bare feet too. Stand upright but not uncharacteristically straight. These measurements need to reflect your natural posture as much as your dimensions. If you have a slight stoop for instance (and alot of people do) this can lengthen your back measurement in relation to your front. So just stand as you normally would. (Please ignore the fact that the "model" in the diagrams is on the wonk standing at a jaunty angle. This is an example of how not to stand!)
Rope in a friend - (or partner. No hanky panky though, you've got work to do!)You'll be able to do some measurements yourself, but not all of them. It's much more accurate if someone does it for you.

Chest: Around the body, under the arms, above the fullest part of the bust. Keep tape measure at back parallel with waist elastic

Bust: Around the fullest part of the bust, keep tape measure straight/level across the back.

Ribcage: Around the body, just below the bust.Keep tape measure at back parallel with waist elastic

Waist:  Measure over the top of the waist elastic, this is the natural waistline.(Leave the elastic in place)

Full Hip:  Around the fullest part of the hip (usually 7-9” below the waist) taking note of the distance between the waist and the hip. On some figures the fullest part may be the bulge at the top of the legs.  Make a note of this too

High Hip: Measure around the hip area approx 3” below the waist.High hip is kinda where the hip starts after the waist.

Bust Point to Bust Point: Measure straight across from apex to apex.(Nipples in other words!)

Across Front at Shoulder: Across the front chest from mid armhole to mid armhole.

Neck: Measure the circumference at the base of the neck (where a necklace would naturally sit)

Shoulder: Measure from your collar/neckline marker at the top of the shoulder to the end of the shoulder.  (To find the end of the shoulder, extend the arm straight out to the side. There will be an indentation at the back of the shoulder, where the shoulder ends)

Front Shoulder to Bust Point: From the front shoulder at the collar, straight down to the apex of the bust. 
Front shoulder to waist

From the front shoulder at the collar, over the bust and down to the waistline/elastic.

Front Neck to Waist: Measure from the hollow in between the collarbone down to the waist/elastic. Think of it as your centre front seam.

Arm Length: With the arm bent measure from the shoulder to the elbow and note the measurement. Continue measuring from the elbow to the wrist bone for a full arm length.

Bicep: Around the fullest part of the arm. Bend the arm to flex the muscle before measuring.

Elbow: With the arm bent, measure around the elbow.

Wrist: Around the narrowest point of the wrist. Usually on or just below the pointy wrist bone.

Back Neck to Waist: Straight down from the back neckline to the waistline/elastic. Think of this as your centre back seam

Back Shoulder to Waist: Straight down from the centre of the back shoulder to the waistline/elastic

Back Width: Straight across the back, arm crease to arm crease (just above the armpit)

I created a simple form for myself last year. To keep a record of my measurements so that I could refer to them whenever I needed them. I have found it pretty useful ever since. I've put together a Draft-along version. If you think it will be helpful for you, you can download it in PDF format here.

So, how does all that sound?? Does it seem alot? Is it clear enough? Any questions/queries/things I've missed then please feel free to leave a comment here or send me an email.  


Phew. I'm off for a cup of coffee!
Pxxx