"Because this toile must be sewn together so that you can try it on, 1.6cm (5/8 in) seam allowances must be added to all edges using the cardboard gauge and a pencil"
There are quite a few ways to go about adding a seam allowance. The cardboard gauge is one. (a strip of cardboard cut to the width of the desired seam allowance) This is the one I like to use around anything other than a straight line. It works just as well with the end of a ruler or tape measure as it does with a seam gauge....I'm adding a bit extra to my seam allowances just in case I need it so I set my gauge to 1". Then it's a question of working your way along the outline, lining up the blue marker and using the tip of the gauge to draw a dashed line to mark out the seam allowance...
I find this the easiest technique for getting an even seam allowance around curves.
Note: I am only adding seam allowance to my side and shoulder seams at this stage (I went a little over onto the armhole curve just to demonstrate). My reasoning is, that these are the only seams I need to sew initially to fit my toile (the sleeves will come a bit later) and I don't really see the point in adding a seam allowance to the hem or neckline at this stage. They will serve no purpose as we will not be sewing the hem or the neckline. Of course, you can either do as I am doing (I may be missing something and doing it totally wrong, lol!) or you can do exactly as the book instructs and add seam allowance to all edges. It's entirely your call.
The seam gauge technique is great on curves but it's alot quicker to use a transparent quilters ruler or dressmaker's curve/square along straight edges.....
Other options:
- Let the width of your ruler dictate the width of your seam allowance. As long as it's at least 5/8 it doesn't really matter if you add extra,as long as it's the same all the way around
- Use your sewing machine to mark out your seam allowance. You have a ready made gauge on the throat plate and can use your stitching line to mark your cutting line and to stop the edges from fraying once you cut it out
- What about this nifty little gadget:
Cute!! How about you? Any pearls of wisdom? How do you add your seam allowances??
Px



















Being use to patterns with no seam allowance I was quite confused first time I met a pattern from the US. I don't add SA to patterns, I just draw up the pattern, cut out about 2 cm from the drawn line and use the line for a guide to make sure I sew the right place.
ReplyDeleteNice meeting you as well Miss P! Your sew-along looks FUN! Am thinking of joining...
ReplyDeleteFabulous to meet you too!!! Sorry we didn't get too much time to chat...next time I'm definitely spending the night in London :)
ReplyDeleteOh, this is reminding me that I have fallen behind on the draft along. I'm still trying to decide how to approach the general sizing of the pattern - with all of the ease that you mentioned from an earlier post, I fear even the smaller size won't fit my body correctly. I will try to catch up soon.
ReplyDeleteHi Portia, great to meet you too! I had great fun and kinda wish that I had bought more fabric after seeing what everyone else bought! But I think I have enough to be going on with.... whilst avoiding the Bet Lynch alikes!
ReplyDeleteHi lovely lady!!!! Sooo nice to meet you the other day, how did you get on fabric-wise? Wish I could have stayed for the drinking part at the end. Thanks again for my prezzie!!! Never have I had such a useful joke-prezz, just used some on my potato wedges, nom nom! Hope to see you soon, happy sewing
ReplyDeleteZoe xxx
Hey Annabelle, the Megan Nielsen grading tutorial pdf I linked to will sort that out for you in a jiffy. Honestly. Email me if you like. Let me know if there's anything you find tricky and I'll try my best to demistify!
ReplyDeletePx
Yo Zo! I had to leave before much drinking was done sadly! I am so due a night on the lash. Not that I could cope anymore!
ReplyDeleteDenim, polka dots, and pinstipe crepe in answer to the fabric question. I could just gobble down some potato wedges right now! Defo have to catch up again. So cool to meet you.
Px
A standard measure tape is 5/8 inches wide. Very handy to use for marking the seam allowance.
ReplyDeleteOoooh, that's a great tip! Thankyou!
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