Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Top Draftalong # 28 - Bust Adjustments
"With a larger than average bustline, your toile will appear very stretched across the bust and the darts will not be providing enough fullness. Mark your bust point with a dot on the toile then transfer this position to the paper pattern. Draw a line through the centre of the dart to the bust point. Draw another line beginning at the middle of the shoulder, down through the bust point to the hem, passing through the middle point of the waist. Cut through the dart, leaving a 3mm hinge at the bust point, then cut from the shoulder to the hem, leaving a hinge at each end. Place a piece of paper underneath the pattern, then spread out the vertical opening by the required amount at the bust point. The dart will automatically be enlarged. Pin in place and then reshape the side seam. (diagram far right of image)"
"A smaller than average bust forms folds of excess fabric over the bust which must be dispensed with. draw the lines and cut your pattern as before, but this time overlap the vertical opening at the bust point to remove the excess fabric. This of course, decreases the bust dart. Reshape the side seam"
Gertie has a roundup of great tutorials here. There's an example of the FBA in action here and here and a well illustrated example of the SBA here (in fact the first stages are applicable to the FBA too).